Cape Town – One&Only Waterfront Hotel
After four days at Pondoro, we flew from the tiny Hoedspruit airport into Cape Town, the Mother City.
Cape Town is a place of contrasts. When driving into the centre from the airport, you first pass seas of slums – corrugated metal patchworked together with tarpaulins and painted wood to create the most meagre housing imaginable. On the other side of the highway, sunny villas dot the hillside. This was only the first evidence of South Africa’s racial and socio-economic divide.
We arrived at our accommodation, the glowing, contemporary One&Only Hotel inside the V&A Waterfront district. We gazed out the windows in awe of the spectacular view of Table Mountain rising behind the city. And of course, being Virtu World Travellers had its perks. We were greeted with an elegant selection of desserts handmade by the chef, along with a $100 USD food and beverage credit – perfect for enjoying cocktails, lunch, and a midnight snack in the lobby lounge. We even developed a crush on the musicians who serenaded the patrons with instrumental covers of our favourite songs.
It would be easy to spend weeks in Cape Town. The possibilities are exciting and diverse. For the adventurous, Table Mountain beckons with a wide variety of hikes along the plateau (or even trekking up and down its flank, if you’re feeling up to it!).
History buffs often visit Robben Island, where former president Nelson Mandela was imprisoned during Apartheid. It is, however, a touristy zoo unless done properly. Avoid the busloads of camera-wielding foreigners and opt instead for a private tour, led by a highly knowledgeable former political prisoner. We only had a short time in Cape Town, so we opted for the much less busy and highly worthwhile District 6 Museum in the city centre. This community designed exhibit brings to life the mixed-race neighbourhood that existed there until the government legislated in 1966 that the locals should be evicted, the buildings razed, and replaced by a white middle class population. Their story is moving and sobering, and offers important insight into Apartheid practices.
To experience some of the city’s British heritage, afternoon tea at the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel is a must. Bask in this glorious private oasis for one of the most time-honoured traditions in Cape Town. Afterwards, stroll through the lush Company’s Gardens across the street for a floral retreat in the heart of the city.
Up-and-coming Woodstock tops the city’s “Hip List.” For craft beers, artisanal local goods, art galleries, and The Test Kitchen (ranked among the best restaurants in the world), spend an afternoon in this eclectic neighbourhood. Another cultural highlight is the photogenic neighbourhood of Bo-Kaap, the former “Malay Quarter,” known for its multicultural makeup and lively ethnic food scene. You won’t miss it – the vividly-coloured buildings climbing Signal Hill make it a sight to see.
I had mixed feelings about the V&A Waterfront. On the one hand, the ocean view was lovely, the shopping was fun, and it was all very safe. We ate at great restaurants and even discovered some non-touristy local crafts. On the other hand, most offerings
were overpriced and the neighbourhood didn’t have a lot of depth to it. It was pretty, it was lively, but it didn’t feel very real. None of the city’s vibrant multiculturalism shone here.
Just before leaving Cape Town, we had one final “wow” experience. We booked tickets to see Goldfish, a South African electro band, perform at the Summer Concert Series in the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Sitting at the top of a grassy hill that formed a natural amphitheatre, we joined thousands of Cape Tonians in dancing the evening away. It was a magical scene. As the sun set behind the surrounding mountains, we felt we could stay there forever.
Next Page: Le Quartier Francais – Franschhoek and the Winelands
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