Italy’s Hidden Gem
Post by: Annie Ewing
When people think of the Italian countryside, Tuscany is often the first region that comes to mind.
Well-informed travellers, however, are now heading to Umbria, Tuscany’s up-and-coming next door neighbour.
The landscape is wilder, the towns less touristy, the wine and food scenes are world class, the culture is rich and authentic. What’s not to love?
The Town of Gubbio
Last week I visited the medieval hill-town of Gubbio, a 2.5-hour drive from both Rome and Florence. Before my arrival, everyone I told about my visit had the same reaction.
“Gubbio is the most beautiful town. You will LOVE Gubbio. You will eat very well.”
I arrived in the evening — too late to take in the view, but as I opened my window the next morning, I was greeting by a panorama of emerald hills, patchwork farmland, and the ancient yellow stone houses typical of the region.
At that moment, Gubbio’s environs won me over. But what I wasn’t expecting what how much more in love I would be with the town itself.
Gubbio is built on a mountain, overlooking a gorge that was once home to a healthy population of dinosaurs (there’s even a local museum to prove it). The town climbs higher in layers of narrow, winding streets. The architecture is charming, with unique doors, bridges, and archways at every turn.
Locals and visitors are rewarded year-round with a lively schedule of cultural events. The largest and most thrilling is the Corsa dei Ceri on May 15, a unique running race and festival. While its origins are religious it has become the most beloved party for miles around.
During my stay I visited the workshop of renowned ceramist Giampietro Rampini. The Rampini family have been in the pottery business since the 1930s, creating terracotta masterpieces inspired by the local nature and Etruscan history. Giampietro led us into his studio, where his employees (many of whom are family members) were hard at work, spinning the clay, painting, glazing, and baking. The result is a spectacular range of dishware, vases, lamps, and decorative pieces. I left with two delicate plates in gorgeous Mediterranean colours, and a feeling of having had a true glimpse into Umbria’s artisan past.
Park Hotel ai Cappuccini
I had the pleasure of staying at Park Hotel ai Cappuccini, a converted 17th-century monastery located five minutes from the town. This luxury property, known for its Marc Messegue spa and incredible dining, has been in the Colaiacovo family for several generations. The care and attention that go into every detail are largely thanks to Carmela, the hotel’s warm and elegant owner.
Carmela’s family, beyond being some of the most significant businesspeople in Umbria, are also among the largest art collectors in the country.
Park Hotel ai Cappuccini is a testament to this; the hotel is a gallery of Italian art, from medieval tapestries to contemporary sculptures. Each room lovingly brings together the old and the new in a seamless composition. My favourite space was the lounge bar, where the beautiful arrangement of furniture was presided over by a stunning floor-to-ceiling 17th century painting.
In the evenings, we were treated to local bubbly and hors d’oeuvres while being serenaded by a pianist. The service was outstanding and our hostess Barbara was the ultimate in hospitality. Enthusiastic, engaging, and an excellent ambassador for the hotel and region.
Villa Benveduti
Just outside Gubbio, at the end of a long, tree-lined drive sits Villa Benveduti, an original 18th-century stone manor overlooking the wild Apennine Mountains. Not only does it have ten bedrooms and an outdoor pool at an extraordinarily value, it has been carefully restored to its historic beauty — vivid frescoes, exposed beam ceilings, plush velvet armchairs and damask curtains, intricate terracotta tiling… What’s more, the design is accented by a number of contemporary renovations, such as each of the ten bathrooms, the chef’s kitchen, and the subtle light fixtures.
This is the perfect setting for a wedding (with ample space for the bridal party and immediate family), a reunion, a company incentive getaway, and groups of friends looking to reconnect in the beauty of the countryside.
Want to experience Gubbio for yourself?
Contact us at 416.570.4677 or by email at info@virtuworldtravel.com.
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